The UV filter system
- What it does
- Broad-spectrum filters absorb UVA and UVB before they reach living skin. UVA drives most photoaging; UVB drives burning. Daily protection needs both.
- Why it is here
- Filter selection is still in progress, so no names yet. The bar is fixed: broad-spectrum coverage with no visible white cast, checked across the full tone spectrum. White cast scales with skin tone, and most sunscreens are still only tested on the lighter half.
THD ascorbate
INCI: Tetrahexyldecyl Ascorbate
- What it does
- An oil-soluble vitamin C derivative. Supports a brighter, more even-looking tone and complements daytime photoprotection.
- Why it is here
- Chosen over L-ascorbic acid deliberately. L-ascorbic acid oxidizes quickly and stings at its working pH; irritation works against the even tone people use vitamin C for. THD ascorbate is stable and well tolerated.
Ethyl ascorbic acid
INCI: 3-O-Ethyl Ascorbic Acid
- What it does
- A stable, water-soluble vitamin C derivative.
- Why it is here
- Covers the water phase while THD ascorbate covers the oil phase. Two delivery routes to the same end, without the instability of the parent molecule.
Vitamin E
INCI: Tocopherol
- What it does
- A lipid-phase antioxidant that sits in the skin's own barrier oils.
- Why it is here
- Vitamins C and E function as a network — each helps regenerate the other. An antioxidant serum without vitamin E is running at half strength.
Ferulic acid
- What it does
- A plant-derived phenolic antioxidant.
- Why it is here
- Stabilizes vitamins C and E and extends how long the antioxidant network keeps working. A supporting actor, and the reason the leads perform.
Niacinamide
5%INCI: Niacinamide
- What it does
- Vitamin B3. Supports barrier function and a more even-looking tone.
- Why it is here
- 5% is where the evidence sits. Not a trace, not a marketing dusting — and not 10%, which raises irritation risk faster than it adds benefit.
Ectoin
- What it does
- An extremolyte — a small molecule made by microbes that survive in extreme environments. Binds water tightly and supports the skin's resilience to environmental stress.
- Why it is here
- A molecule evolved under harsh conditions, in a formula built for the strongest sun. The fit is not a coincidence.
Bakuchiol
- What it does
- A plant-derived active that supports the look of firmer, smoother skin overnight.
- Why it is here
- Comparative studies show retinol-like visible results with less irritation. One of two candidates for Night Repair; the decision follows testing, not trend.
Encapsulated retinal
INCI: Retinal (Retinaldehyde)
- What it does
- A retinoid one conversion step from the active form. Encapsulation slows its release, which keeps it gentle.
- Why it is here
- The other Night Repair candidate. Faster-acting than retinol; encapsulation buys back the tolerability. Testing decides between this and bakuchiol.
Peptides
- What it does
- Short chains of amino acids that support the look of firmer skin.
- Why it is here
- Well tolerated by design, which makes them suited to nightly use alongside a retinoid or bakuchiol.
Ceramides
- What it does
- Lipids identical to the ones holding the skin barrier together.
- Why it is here
- Barrier first. A sound barrier holds water, tolerates actives, and recovers from sun exposure better. Everything else is built on this.
Squalane
- What it does
- A stable emollient that mirrors the skin's own squalene.
- Why it is here
- Light, inert, and compatible with everything else in the formula. It carries the actives without competing with them.
Shea butter
INCI: Butyrospermum Parkii Butter
- What it does
- A rich emollient dense in fatty acids the body's skin barrier uses.
- Why it is here
- Body skin is thicker, drier, and more neglected than facial skin. It gets the heavier lipids.
Cocoa butter
INCI: Theobroma Cacao Seed Butter
- What it does
- A firm plant butter that softens on skin contact and seals in water.
- Why it is here
- The occlusive half of the body formula — it keeps the humectants' work from evaporating.
Sea moss
INCI: Chondrus Crispus Extract
- What it does
- A red algae extract rich in minerals and natural humectants.
- Why it is here
- Draws and holds water in the outer skin. Also the one ingredient that grew in the sea this brand keeps arguing about.
Marula oil
INCI: Sclerocarya Birrea Seed Oil
- What it does
- A fast-absorbing oil high in oleic acid and antioxidants.
- Why it is here
- Keeps a rich body formula from sitting on the surface. Absorbs, then gets out of the way.
Urea
5–10%INCI: Urea
- What it does
- A humectant the skin makes itself. At this range it softens rough, flaky texture while holding water.
- Why it is here
- 5–10% is the working range for smoothing without discomfort. Higher concentrations are for medical contexts, not daily body care.